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Cable Sleeving 101

W4RL0K

HI, and welcome to my very first guide showing you how to sleeve your very own computer cables. There are tones of guides on line that show you various ways of doing is. But this is the way I like to do it and gives you pretty good results. In this guide I will be covering two things, 1. Fabricating your custom length cable and 2. Sleeving them. If you have no desire to create your own cables or there are already at a suitable length the guide should still be easy enough to follow. (Hopefully) To begin with I will cover the main things you will need. 1. Flush Wire Cutters 2. MDPC Sleeving 3. Heat Shrink 4. Wire (I use 18 Gauge, 16 should work just as well) 5. ATX Pin Remover 6. ATX Pins 7. MDPC Crimping Tool 8. Wire Stripers 9. Metal/Engineers Ruler 10. Scissors (or a second pair of Wire Cutter) 11. Lighter 12. Heat Gun With Adjustable Temp 13. Razor Blades img_0143t0j4u.jpgimg_0148cak2v.jpgimg_01554lk1p.jpg Step 1. Cut your desired amount of wires to your required length required with one of the pairs of your wire cutters. Step 2. Tape your ruler down to your work surface to secure it in place to ensure an exact measurement for every wire you cut. img_0161jyk64.jpg Step 3. Holding your wire firmly alongside the edge of the ruler making sure it is flush against the end, make a nick in the insulation of the wire at the 5mm mark. (you might find it easier to tape the wire alongside the ruler if you want perfection) img_0165mqj9z.jpg

Step 4. Using your wire stripers. remove the insulation from the mark you have just made in the previous step. img_01700ak08.jpg

Step 5. Now here is the tricky part. So I am going to try and show you the easiest way I find to crimp the pins onto the end of the wire. Taking one of you pins, hold it between the 18-22 AWG section jaws., gently squeeze the handles to you hear one click. This should now hold the pin in place. img_0174nkk7l.jpgimg_0183kljya.jpg

If you continue to squeeze the handles for another two clicks you will expand the wings on the pin enough so you can insert your wire in between. img_0186jfjhw.jpg

Continue to squeeze the handles to crimp the pin on to the end of the cable. img_0187u6kw8.jpg

img_0204dkdhf.jpg

Success!!!!

 

 

Now it is just the case of repeating these five steps until you have the required amount. Next we are going to want to start sleeving the cables you have just finished making. There are two main methods of doing this 1. With Heat Shrink or 2. Shrink less (Without Heat Shrink) today I will be showing you how to do it with as I think it gives you a better look than without. The first thing you are going to want to do is cut a piece of sleeving the same length as the cable you have just made. The easiest way to do this is by pinching the heat shrink against the wire, leaving about a 2 millimetre gap before the pin starts. img_0213qjd1n.jpg

Holding the sleeve in the same place between you right thumb and index finger, pinching the wire and the sleeving together with the left. slide your hand down the wire making sure to keep it nice and tight. img_0214r4f8h.jpg

When you get to the other end, cut the sleeving with a pair of your flush cutters making sure to leave the same 2 mil gap you did the other end. img_02165ufo4.jpg

It is a good idea to melt the end of your sleeve after you have made any cuts to prevent it from fraying, this can be done by applying a little heat to the sleeve with your lighter, just enough to you can see in bubble ever so slightly.

 img_02225qfc7.jpg

Next thing we need to do is get the sleeve over the wire. If you wish you can tape the pins with masking tape if you are worried about them snagging, but really it is only necessary when you are working with paracord. To get your sleeve over the wire, you need to expand and contract it in a snake like motion up the wire. 1. Push the sleeving over the fist pin as far as you can img_0229yfl2u.jpg

2. Then holding the wire firmly in place with your right hand, compress the sleeving over the pin until you can grab it with your left hand. img_0233g8l9b.jpg

3. Then let go of the sleeve you are holding with your right hand. img_0237y8bov.jpg

Repeat these steps until you can see enough of the pin the other end to pull it through. img_0241q1bg0.jpg

If you are having a bit of trouble getting it through, heat the end of the sleeving up ever so slightly with your lighter until you can pull it through. img_0247jszpe.jpg

Don't worry if the sleeve is looking a bit on the short side, we still need to stretch it again before we put the heat shrink on. We are now going to start adding the heat shrink onto the ends of our wire. Now If you are shopping from MDPC and certain other stores, you can buy your heat shrink in pre-cut 15mm pieces, however this is usually more expensive and you get less than what you would if you bought in a single 1 meter piece This is what this simple tool is for. To cut 15mm pieces of heat shrink quickly and easily every time. :) I may post a guide depending on the interest, it is simple enough to make though. img_024971xa4.jpg

Once you have got your heat shrink prepared make sure you have your heat gun ready, and reposition the sleeve on the wire till its two mil away from the pin, just like you did when you was measuring it. img_0250vqxoy.jpg

Whilst holding the sleeve in place get a piece of your heat shrink and slide on to the wire. It is vital that the sleeve doesn't move at this point or else you won't get a flush fit against the Molex connector. img_0252kdy71.jpg

Start to shrink it, until there is some resistance when you try and move it up the wire. Or until you can start to see the sleeve show through. img_0257aoao8.jpg

You now need to position on the pin, using the second set of wings as a guide continue to shrink it over those second set of wings. (See image above) img_0263xwykg.jpg

 

 img_0258raarw.jpg

And, Presto!

 

 

If you are having trouble getting the wire to fit into the connector you can try heating it up with your heat gun, if it doesn't go after that unfortunately you are going to have to redo the heat shrink and re-position the sleeve

 

 img_895241qrw.jpg

 

. After that there is Just 23 more to do.  :)

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Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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Good start, a couple things which could be useful: Pin remover. Essential piece of kit for anyone wanting to sleeve their own cables. The best you can buy is from Nils from MDPC, it's more money, but totally worth it. :)

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Good start' date=' a couple things which could be useful: Pin remover. Essential piece of kit for anyone wanting to sleeve their own cables. The best you can buy is from Nils from MDPC, it's more money, but totally worth it. :)[/quote']

I can second that, the sleeve from MDPC-X is amazing too.

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Where would you pick up a heat gun? Home Depot perhaps?

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Home depot ( i assume that is a hardware shop? if so, yes), Amazon and any hardware shop will have them.

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I heat gun is the cheap part. If you want a crimping tool that can be a huge cost. If you only plan to do it once I recommend buying unsleeved extension cables and then sleeving them yourself. Its more expensive in the long run though.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

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I found a heat gun at my local hardware store, was about 40$.

MEH

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One question about sleeving :

Possible to do that with NON-Modular PSU's too? without loosing my guarantee

CPU: Intel i7 4790K @4.8GhZ  CPU Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97 UD3H  GPU: Asus ROG RX 480 8G OC Memory: 32GB Gskill Ares 2400Mhz  Storage: 2x Crucial M4 512GB SSD (raid0)  / 1TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W  Operating System: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSB (64 bit) Other: NZXT Hue+ LED Controller with 8 LED Strips for desk and PC lighting

 

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I would love it if you completed the guide, even add an online store were we could buy sleeving ect?

Good Guide tho, thanks alot

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You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman.

If you could make it into one big post and it get pinned, that'd be awesome!

CASE: BitFenix Prodigy | CPU:  i5 4570| CPU COOLER: Noctua NH-U12s | MOTHERBOARD: Asus H87-I Plus| RAM: Muskin Blackline 8GB | SSD: Samsung 830 128gb | 


SSD: Samsung 840 128gb SSD(Games) | GPU: Asus R9 270X DCUII | PSU: Seasonic 660w | MONITORS: LG 23" IPS 5ms |

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You sir' date=' are a scholar and a gentleman. If you could make it into one big post and it get pinned, that'd be awesome![/quote']

Thanks. As of now we are limited to posing a maximum of 4 images per post. As soon as that is not the case I will be merging it in to one.

Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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I just wanna say good on ya OP W4RL0K. Very nice of you to show peeps how to sleeve. It can be a bit of an overwhelming prospect to begin with.

I must say though you should contact a mod or admin and ask them to help you organize all of your posts to the top of this thread.

i5 2500k, MSI Z77 Mpower, 4x4 GB Musking Enhanced Blackline. MSI N560GTX-Ti Hawk(temporary), Samsung 830 128, Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 750w

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You sir' date=' are a scholar and a gentleman. If you could make it into one big post and it get pinned, that'd be awesome![/quote'] Thanks. As of now we are limited to posing a maximum of 4 images per post. As soon as that is not the case I will be merging it in to one.

Fantastic! I do hope you get Pinned as well. That'd be swell.

CASE: BitFenix Prodigy | CPU:  i5 4570| CPU COOLER: Noctua NH-U12s | MOTHERBOARD: Asus H87-I Plus| RAM: Muskin Blackline 8GB | SSD: Samsung 830 128gb | 


SSD: Samsung 840 128gb SSD(Games) | GPU: Asus R9 270X DCUII | PSU: Seasonic 660w | MONITORS: LG 23" IPS 5ms |

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Nice tut. Will be following this to sleeve my own cables :)

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You need something with rigidity and weight to push those tabs down. Industrial staples ( like those you find in a staple gun ) are good bet. Get a couple of those to put down the sides of the pin normally works. It's a lot harder, but it is do able.

AMD 8350 // 8 GB Corsair Ram // PNY 780 Ti // Asus 1080p Monitor // Antec 120mm AIO // CM Quickfire TK w/ Custom Caps  // RAT 5 mouse // Audio Technica m50x // Behringer 4-line + Line6 8-line Audio Interfaces

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You need something with rigidity and weight to push those tabs down. Industrial staples ( like those you find in a staple gun ) are good bet. Get a couple of those to put down the sides of the pin normally works. It's a lot harder, but it is do able.
You could try a paper clip and try and fold it into a tweezers like shape, it would be the same principle as the genuine pin remover.
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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yeah wel to be honest i just tried everything under the sun and it's just not easy! i think at times you just have to know to give up! might try some nice yellow and green earth sleeving for that super cool look :D

AMD 8350 // 8 GB Corsair Ram // PNY 780 Ti // Asus 1080p Monitor // Antec 120mm AIO // CM Quickfire TK w/ Custom Caps  // RAT 5 mouse // Audio Technica m50x // Behringer 4-line + Line6 8-line Audio Interfaces

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yeah wel to be honest i just tried everything under the sun and it's just not easy! i think at times you just have to know to give up! might try some nice yellow and green earth sleeving for that super cool look :D
Yellow and Green, sounds interesting, I would love to see the results :)
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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Very nice and clear tutorial. I'm going to do this when I get around building an actual desktop again!

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I found a heat gun at my local hardware store, was about 40$.
you can use your normal lighter !!! I use it all the time much much cheaper!

=

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One question about sleeving :

Possible to do that with NON-Modular PSU's too? without loosing my guarantee

Yes you can sleeve non-modualr power supplies, but it involves opening them up so you are able to fit sleeve onto the wires. This unfortunately will void any type of warranty you currently have.
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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I would love it if you completed the guide, even add an online store were we could buy sleeving ect?

Good Guide tho, thanks alot

I am currently limited to the amount of time I have each night, however I hope to have it finished this week.
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman.

If you could make it into one big post and it get pinned, that'd be awesome!

Thank you. And I have just managed to merge it with the help of Dave.
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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Nice tut. Will be following this to sleeve my own cables :)
Thanks, Glad to help.
Current Rig:

 

Case: CM Storm Mid Tower | Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V CPU: Intel i7 (1155) 2600k @ 3.4GHz | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU:  XFX HD Radeon XXX DD 6870 | Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX  | Power Suply: OCZ 1000W  |  Boot Drive: 2 x WD Raptors 300GB in Raid 0 | Storage: Samsung SpinPoint T3 1TB | OS: Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit 

 

Project Zero (In Progress)

 

Case: Silverstone TJ07 I Motherboard: MSI z87-G45 Gaming | CPU: Intel i5-4570k | Ram: Ballistix Tracer DDR3 4x4GB GPU: 2X MSI R9 290X 4GB (x-fire) Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W | Boot Drive: Samsung 840 Evo 250GB | Cooling: Custom loop (cpu+gpu's)

 


 


 


 

#killedmywife

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