Water Temperature Sensors?

[Peopie]

Sorry if this is a silly question, but do they make G 1/4 plugs which have a temp probe built into them that plug into an external/internal usb port?

 

I've seen some that have this standard 2-pin connector, but I'm not sure what that means, or if its compatible with my motherboard. I have a P8Z77-I Deluxe, in a Bitfenix Prodigy.

I've read that they can plug into some 5.25" bays, but I don't have any space for that due to my rad. 

I have plenty of desk space though, so I wouldn't mind having something sit on my desk, but I don't have an easy way of routing a cable into my case aside from USB.

[ddbtkd456]

yes but they are pointless since you would need a dozen of them or so to accurately read your water temperature.

[Peopie]

yes but they are pointless since you would need a dozen of them or so to accurately read your water temperature.

Oh, Really?

 

I figured that water temps are fairly consistent throughout the entire loop due to some equilibrium of heat exchange and because of how fast the liquid is running through

[ddbtkd456]

Oh, Really?

 

I figured that water temps are fairly consistent throughout the entire loop due to some equilibrium of heat exchange and because of how fast the liquid is running through

 

Best way to tell what the temp is by your case temperature or on board controls with your cpu and gpu...the water temperature will not be consistent with these numbers.

[moos]

Oh, Really?

 

I figured that water temps are fairly consistent throughout the entire loop due to some equilibrium of heat exchange and because of how fast the liquid is running through

 

They're ok.  It's all relative anyway, but eventually your water temps in the loop will normalize and give you a general idea of your delta, if that's what you're after.

[airdeano]

Sorry if this is a silly question, but do they make G 1/4 plugs which have a temp probe built into them that plug into an external/internal usb port?

 

I've seen some that have this standard 2-pin connector, but I'm not sure what that means, or if its compatible with my motherboard. I have a P8Z77-I Deluxe, in a Bitfenix Prodigy.

I've read that they can plug into some 5.25" bays, but I don't have any space for that due to my rad. 

I have plenty of desk space though, so I wouldn't mind having something sit on my desk, but I don't have an easy way of routing a cable into my case aside from USB.

 

here ya go: BP-WTP-CT

 

[Peopie]

Hmm, well I was more concerned about keeping my water temps low enough so that it won't break my acrylic reservoir. I've been setting the temp limit on my graphics card to 58C just to be sure that the water won't go above 60C

 

here ya go: BP-WTP-CT

 

 

 

See, what I don't understand about those is what does that plug into?

 

The 2-pin side I mean

[G9x001]

Oh, Really?

 

I figured that water temps are fairly consistent throughout the entire loop due to some equilibrium of heat exchange and because of how fast the liquid is running through

 

The water will gain temp as it passes by a water block. and will loose heat as it passes through a radiator it will not be consistent throughout the loop. but you could place a temperature sensor at vital parts of the loop if required. e.g. just after a cpu block or just after a gpu block.   

 

[airdeano]

Hmm, well I was more concerned about keeping my water temps low enough so that it won't break my acrylic reservoir. I've been setting the temp limit on my graphics card to 58C just to be sure that the water won't go above 60C

 

 

See, what I don't understand about those is what does that plug into?

 

The 2-pin side I mean

 

a fan controller (with temp read out), some motherboards have optional

temperature inputs. temperature panels also.

[Shaqo_Wyn]

yes but they are pointless since you would need a dozen of them or so to accurately read your water temperature.

 

 

Oh, Really?

 

I figured that water temps are fairly consistent throughout the entire loop due to some equilibrium of heat exchange and because of how fast the liquid is running through

 

 

The water will gain temp as it passes by a water block. and will loose heat as it passes through a radiator it will not be consistent throughout the loop. but you could place a temperature sensor at vital parts of the loop if required. e.g. just after a cpu block or just after a gpu block.   

 

 

@Peopie figured right. The liquid in a custom loop moves around so fast that the liquid temp equalizes. This should be common knowledge by now. You can place one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8341/ex-tub-442/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_BP-WTP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579 anywhere in your loop were it's in constant contact with the liquid and presto.

[Jodomcfrodo]

The water will gain temp as it passes by a water block. and will loose heat as it passes through a radiator it will not be consistent throughout the loop. but you could place a temperature sensor at vital parts of the loop if required. e.g. just after a cpu block or just after a gpu block.

The temperature will equalize. This is not true.

To the OP, the thing you see above will plug your radiator or waterblock. Many radiators come with 6 g1/4 threads and 4 plugs since you only use 2 holes. You would screw that piece that was linked above into one of the extra holes in your rad/waterblock. This way the liquid will pass over it.

Also, your res will be fine. Your card should never reach the 50's unless you don't have enough rads or are running huge overclocks. You shouldn't worry about the res cracking at all. It will be fine.

[kd1011]

Are temp sensors standardised?

 

It would be interesting to add a water temp sensor to that new corsair link commander with RGB LEDs....

[Peopie]

The temperature will equalize. This is not true.

To the OP, the thing you see above will plug your radiator or waterblock. Many radiators come with 6 g1/4 threads and 4 plugs since you only use 2 holes. You would screw that piece that was linked above into one of the extra holes in your rad/waterblock. This way the liquid will pass over it.

Also, your res will be fine. Your card should never reach the 50's unless you don't have enough rads or are running huge overclocks. You shouldn't worry about the res cracking at all. It will be fine.

 

Thanks for that information!

 

I have a 3570k and an R9 290 with the Uber Bios, with an EX240 and EX120. I'm idling around 40 in the afternoon, and during load my GPU has been going to around 55. I want to overclock it some more, but I don't want to ruin any components.

 

I have some new Hyperborea fans that i've been meaning to replace my old fans with, and maybe those will help with temps?

[Jodomcfrodo]

Thanks for that information!

 

I have a 3570k and an R9 290 with the Uber Bios, with an EX240 and EX120. I'm idling around 40 in the afternoon, and during load my GPU has been going to around 55. I want to overclock it some more, but I don't want to ruin any components.

 

I have some new Hyperborea fans that i've been meaning to replace my old fans with, and maybe those will help with temps?

What would help the most is a extra rad. Depending on the fans you have now they will help. 40c on idle is a little much. My load temps don't go past 40c.

[Peopie]

What would help the most is a extra rad. Depending on the fans you have now they will help. 40c on idle is a little much. My load temps don't go past 40c.

Yeah... 40 is kinda high. I'm not really sure why, only thing I can imagine is the ambients here during the summer, though it doesn't get that hot. I'll do some more testing when I get back home.

 

Rad space is kinda tight for me right now. I think the most I can fit is replacing the 120 with a 140mm rad, or I might be able to add a 140mm.

[G9x001]

@Peopie figured right. The liquid in a custom loop moves around so fast that the liquid temp equalizes. This should be common knowledge by now. You can place one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8341/ex-tub-442/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_BP-WTP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579 anywhere in your loop were it's in constant contact with the liquid and presto.

 

Hi just wanted you to know I just tested my loop with my Ryobi heat gun it has a accuracy of +- 1.5% and when I test the temperature before a block in my system the temp is lower on the inlet then on the out. the heat has to be transferred to the water in the block there it increases the water temp. and the water temp is not stable throughout the loop. here are my results.

all temps are running furmark and prime95 together for 25 minutes before testing.

 

my system is an r9 290x 1080 Ghz/1380Mhz clock with ek full block

i7 950 @ 4.22Ghz thermal take block

I have a thermal take big water with a 360mm koolance rad mounted outside the case on a koolance mounting bracket.  

GPU   inlet 23.0  outlet 31.3

to 360mm rad inlet temp 38.0 outlet 16.8 into

CPU   inlet 18.3  outlet 24.0

into 120mm rad Inlet 22.3 outlet 17.9

room temp taken from wall 13.2

all temps are in degrees Celsius.

 

[Peopie]

-snip-

Wow, that is suprising.

 

If I recall correctly though, the thermaltake big water was one of the worst watercooling systems ever made, with a radiator being forced into 5.25 bays with heavy air restrictions.

 

Do you think that perhaps the pump is not allowing for a fast enough flow rate to allow the water to reach an equilibrium?

[G9x001]

Wow, that is suprising.

 

If I recall correctly though, the thermaltake big water was one of the worst watercooling systems ever made, with a radiator being forced into 5.25 bays with heavy air restrictions.

 

Do you think that perhaps the pump is not allowing for a fast enough flow rate to allow the water to reach an equilibrium?

 

Flowrate is around 500L an hour from the manufactures specs and the flow meter is turning pretty quickly I have 1.1 litres of water in my loop so the water should be cycling around 7 times a minute

the thermal take big water is to say the least a piece of crap compared to some systems but it works.    

 

just done some research it is impossible for a water loop with a energy source input and loss to reach a thermal equilibrium.  

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/thermal_equilibrium

[Grrizz]

Flowrate is around 500L an hour from the manufactures specs and the flow meter is turning pretty quickly I have 1.1 litres of water in my loop so the water should be cycling around 7 times a minute

the thermal take big water is to say the least a piece of crap compared to some systems but it works.    

 

just done some research it is impossible for a water loop with a energy source input and loss to reach a thermal equilibrium.  

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/thermal_equilibrium

That sounds like you have a flow problem in your loop, generally you don't see more then 1c difference through a well setup loop (usually less then 0.5c). For a quick idea of what's going on:

If your pump is doing 500L/hr;

500L/hr = 0.14L/s

= 138888.89mm^3/s

Assuming 9.5mm ID tube;

Cross section = 70.88mm^2

Water velocity = 1959.43mm/s

= ~2m/s

However that is your pumps max flow (unrestricted) so without knowing your loops restriction and pumps specs IDK your true flow, you can safely assume it will be much lower but if not overly restricted should still be in the range of 0.5-1m/s at a rough guess (not knowing anything about your pump), now take into account the path through your water block is generally more restrictive then your tubing resulting in an increase in velocity you can see why your water temps shouldn't change much throughout the loop because it is cycling so fast. The only time you should see large temperature deltas is when you have very high flow restrictions allowing the water to move slowly enough through the blocks to heat up significantly. The fact your water heats up while travelling between the Rad/GPU, GPU/Rad and Rad/CPU also suggests something's amiss.

@OP: Your water temps should be significantly lower than your internal CPU/GPU temps because of the thermal resistance between the cores and the water so I wouldn't worry about your water getting to 60c, I'm not sure what you mean about breaking your acrylic res though? Acrylics melting point is well over 100c (and if you get there you've got other issues ) or are you worried about thermal expansion? if so just make sure you leave some air in the top of you res, you can even get pressure release valves if you're that worried but I think its unnecessary as your water is unlikely to get to a temp where it will be an issue.

[G9x001]

That sounds like you have a flow problem in your loop, generally you don't see more then 1c difference through a well setup loop (usually less then 0.5c). For a quick idea of what's going on:

If your pump is doing 500L/hr;

500L/hr = 0.14L/s

= 138888.89mm^3/s

Assuming 9.5mm ID tube;

Cross section = 70.88mm^2

Water velocity = 1959.43mm/s

= ~2m/s

However that is your pumps max flow (unrestricted) so without knowing your loops restriction and pumps specs IDK your true flow, you can safely assume it will be much lower but if not overly restricted should still be in the range of 0.5-1m/s at a rough guess (not knowing anything about your pump), now take into account the path through your water block is generally more restrictive then your tubing resulting in an increase in velocity you can see why your water temps shouldn't change much throughout the loop because it is cycling so fast. The only time you should see large temperature deltas is when you have very high flow restrictions allowing the water to move slowly enough through the blocks to heat up significantly. The fact your water heats up while travelling between the Rad/GPU, GPU/Rad and Rad/CPU also suggests something's amiss.

 

 

Hi even if my flow rate had dropped by half. if the input and output temperature of the radiator was the same wouldn't that mean that the radiator has effectively done nothing (had no energy transfer) that would mean the radiator has reached its maximum thermal dissipation and allowing warm water to keep traveling through the loop? Plus I know for a fact that a restriction causes pressure increase and a velocity decrease. and coming from a restriction to a lesser restriction or no restriction causes a pressure decrease and a velocity increase.

 

[©D0n7H8M3™®]

here ya go: BP-WTP-CT

 

 

is it me or do they have "cocaine" as fast energy for and option?

[ddbtkd456]

is it me or do they have "cocaine" as fast energy for and option?

 

Nope they do.....when I asked from someones help on a build @CoolBeans said to get some cocaine with it.....hopefully it was from down south hahaha.

[©D0n7H8M3™®]

Nope they do.....when I asked from someones help on a build @CoolBeans said to get some cocaine with it.....hopefully it was from down south hahaha.

I just love the fact that some parents don't give their children carbonated/energy drinks because the sugar in the drinks will make them "high" or "wired" on sugar but actually having the phrase now mean "don't give your kids Cocaine they'll get high on it" just makes me crack up so much you wouldn't believe

[ddbtkd456]

I just love the fact that some parents don't give their children carbonated/energy drinks because the sugar in the drinks will make them "high" or "wired" on sugar but actually having the phrase now mean "don't give your kids Cocaine they'll get high on it" just makes me crack up so much you wouldn't believe

 

I know right....I get quiet a kick out of it...I should order one and dump it out and just keep the can.

[Peopie]

@OP: Your water temps should be significantly lower than your internal CPU/GPU temps because of the thermal resistance between the cores and the water so I wouldn't worry about your water getting to 60c, I'm not sure what you mean about breaking your acrylic res though? Acrylics melting point is well over 100c (and if you get there you've got other issues ) or are you worried about thermal expansion? if so just make sure you leave some air in the top of you res, you can even get pressure release valves if you're that worried but I think its unnecessary as your water is unlikely to get to a temp where it will be an issue.

 

Its not the melting point that I am concerned about, but a different point. I can't find where I read, but I read that when acrylic is at around 60C it will slowly creep and deform overtime if there is any load. I have the XSPC D5 Pump Res top combo, and the pump is mounted on the side of the reservoir. I've also read how some people with the same exact reservoir have had leaks after long periods of time with high temps. I don't know how concerned I should be, but I don't want to take any chances of anything leaking in my case.