Jump to content

Watercooling newbie and some help

Go to solution Solved by Leonard,

Yup, The front and PSU intake of the Corsair 760t has a built-in removable dust filter, I already have a dust filter for the 120mm bottom intake fan. They say never block/ put dust filters on the exhaust, so I left the top and rear clear. So yeah, my plan is front 2x140mm(stock fans) + bottom 120mm. then 3x120mm pull for the top and im going to change the rear exhaust.

 

So, If I understood it correctly. I should still follow the CFM of the fans regardless on how high/low it's static pressure is. If I remember correctly, +/- 20 CFM was the sweet spot for the Positive air pressure, AFAIK.

 

Intake total = 184.99 CFM

front 2 x 140mm (Corsair AF 140L Stock fans @ 66.4 CFM) =  132.8

bottom 120mm (Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Exhaust total = 224.78 CFM

Top 3 x 120mm ( Akasa Apache 120 @ 57.53 CFM ) = 172.59

Rear 120mm ( Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Well, that ruined my plan for positive air pressure lol. Should I get a stronger front intake? Or should I opt for a smaller rad?

 

OK, so I measured the case for the fitting of the Black Ice GTX Lite 360 + akasa apache in pull. Unfortunately it will be in the way of the motherboard so I really need to get a thinner Rad. From the ones I listed above, which would you recommend? As for the Alphacool, It was overpriced here. more than 1/3 of the original price. The Alphacool ST30 was priced 'ok' but by the looks of it, it's thickness would not be enough to have a decent cooling, Am I right? So the ones I listed were the ones at the top of my list at the moment.

CFM is nothing without static pressure, for example, if two fans can produce the same CFM say 70CFM but one fan has static pressure of 2.7 and the other has static pressure of 1.4 then the fan with the higher static pressure will be able to carry the CFM further into the case and over the components thus giving great cooling performance and pressure.

 

You are correct in saying you should never have a filter on the exhaust fans but you need them for the intake fans or otherwise the dust will still get in your case..

 

Don't do a thinner radiator than 34mm and yes, the ST30 is not my first choice for cooling but it has gotten good reviews. XSPC is my company for radiators as i find their radiators are priced right and perform as well as the more expensive radiators and i am sure you could do a XSPC ex360 radiator on top or maybe even a XT45 360mm radiator with three fans in either push or pull as i think the mounting holes are offset to allow for motherboard connectors such as the auxiliary eight pin power.  

 

This is what i would do, 3xAkasa Apaches 140mm, 2 in front and one on the bottom all with filters and 4xAkasa Apaches, 3 on your radiator on top in pull or push and one in the back sending air out the back without filters.

 

So your pressure would be this.....

 

Intake

2xAkasa Apaches 140mm @ 89.55CFM = 179.10 CFM

1xAkasa Apache 120mm @ 57.53CFM = 57.53 CFM

Total CFM = 236.63 CFM

 

Exhaust

3x Akasa Apache 120mm @57.53CFM = 172.59CFM

1x Stock Corsair 120mm fan @ 52.19CFM 

Total CFM = 224.78 CFM

Hello linustechtips forum!

 

First post ever on here, and I'll be building my first rig soon. I currently have these parts, and will be buying the other parts on the 2nd - 3rd week of August.

 

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MK9mmG

 

Finished build would look something like this. 

 

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2MtfnQ

 

I left the CPU cooler part blank at the moment for I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to get Corsair H105 or Custom loop ( only tutorials as 'experience' lol ) with XSPC or EK water blocks in mind with FrozenQ or EK reservoirs/pumps(?)(aesthetics in mind).

 

I'll be upgrading my CPU in a years time when the Broadwell comes out or when it comes or sale :)

 

Maybe I will also be adding another GPU in there and also thinking about integrating it into the loop if I do decide to go to that route.

 

Tips or suggestions are highly appreciated! Specially on the parts and overclockings! :)

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

A watercooling kit or a full custom loop is always the best way to go. If you plan on adding GPUs to your loop you will need a strong pump so look for D5s all are good as they have high flow rate and pressure head.

 

You need to know what case dimensions you are using to know what radiators to use. The bigger the radiator the better but do not pick shitty fans either.

 

EDIT

Just saw you want to use the 760T

 

For radiators i would use a thick 360mm top, right now Phoyba g changer is $60 and 60mm thick at frozencpu and a thick 280mm front.

 

For fittings on a good budget i would use Monsoon's free flows or chain guns if you have a modest budget then some XSPC v2 will be great as well.

 

For fans, take a look at Akasa Apachie 120mm and 140mm and the rebranded versions from Rosewill 120mm and 140mm

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

A watercooling kit or a full custom loop is always the best way to go. If you plan on adding GPUs to your loop you will need a strong pump so look for D5s all are good as they have high flow rate and pressure head.

 

You need to know what case dimensions you are using to know what radiators to use. The bigger the radiator the better but do not pick shitty fans either.

 

EDIT

Just saw you want to use the 760T

 

For radiators i would use a thick 360mm top, right now Phoyba g changer is $60 and 60mm thick at frozencpu and a thick 280mm front.

 

For fittings on a good budget i would use Monsoon's free flows or chain guns if you have a modest budget then some XSPC v2 will be great as well.

 

For fans, take a look at Akasa Apachie 120mm and 140mm and the rebranded versions from Rosewill 120mm and 140mm

 

Yes, 360 rad is my go to IF I was going on the full custom loop route. For the pricing though, I live in Europe (Italy) and the pricing here on that Phobya G changer is WAAAAAY higher, like 100~ euros. But still considering it.

 

As for the pump, D5 Laings are the ones that I was looking at, but the aesthetics are a bit meh and since the 760t has a full acrylic side panel, i was going to remove all of the HDD trays whether i was going full custom loop or just an AIO.

 

Yeah fittings, that's where I got lost and scratching my head every time I had the time to look at them together with reservoirs or reservoirs+pump combos lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, 360 rad is my go to IF I was going on the full custom loop route. For the pricing though, I live in Europe (Italy) and the pricing here on that Phobya G changer is WAAAAAY higher, like 100~ euros. But still considering it.

 

As for the pump, D5 Laings are the ones that I was looking at, but the aesthetics are a bit meh and since the 760t has a full acrylic side panel, i was going to remove all of the HDD trays whether i was going full custom loop or just an AIO.

 

Yeah fittings, that's where I got lost and scratching my head every time I had the time to look at them together with reservoirs or reservoirs+pump combos lol

You could have said where you shop from and this way i would have put stuff from where ever that is.

 

Here are some radiators that should suit you budget and work just as good as the G Changer. Radiator 1 and 2 and 3

 

Fans 120mm 140mm

 

The D5 pump is the best pump on the marker for watercooling at the moment and there are a few companies like bitspower that dress them up to look better with mod kits.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello linustechtips forum!

 

First post ever on here, and I'll be building my first rig soon. I currently have these parts, and will be buying the other parts on the 2nd - 3rd week of August.

 

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MK9mmG

 

Finished build would look something like this. 

 

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2MtfnQ

 

I left the CPU cooler part blank at the moment for I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to get Corsair H105 or Custom loop ( only tutorials as 'experience' lol ) with XSPC or EK water blocks in mind with FrozenQ or EK reservoirs/pumps(?)(aesthetics in mind).

 

I'll be upgrading my CPU in a years time when the Broadwell comes out or when it comes or sale :)

 

Maybe I will also be adding another GPU in there and also thinking about integrating it into the loop if I do decide to go to that route.

 

Tips or suggestions are highly appreciated! Specially on the parts and overclockings! :)

 

Thanks!

Unless you want to buy each part for watercooling individually i suggest you go with a XSPC 360 kit. Only thing i suggest you to do i change the fans and tubing to something you would prefer. If you decide to change the tubing make sure the fittings match or buy new ones.

 

gud luk brah

It has a D5 pump, that's one of the best pumps out! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You could have said where you shop from and this way i would have put stuff from where ever that is.

 

Here are some radiators that should suit you budget and work just as good as the G Changer. Radiator 1 and 2 and 3

 

Fans 120mm 140mm

 

The D5 pump is the best pump on the marker for watercooling at the moment and there are a few companies like bitspower that dress them up to look better with mod kits.

 

Unless you want to buy each part for watercooling individually i suggest you go with a XSPC 360 kit. Only thing i suggest you to do i change the fans and tubing to something you would prefer. If you decide to change the tubing make sure the fittings match or buy new ones.

 

gud luk brah

It has a D5 pump, that's one of the best pumps out! 

 

So i've been scouting for these past few days. Saw a pump + pump top from EK DDC 3.2 PWM. Any good/better? 

 

And for the rads, I've seen some that has holes 1 at each end. Would that be recommended compared to the other ones?

 

Those Akasa fans, are they the best bang for your buck? I'm having a hard time looking for fans static fans atm. Looking for silent but has decent cfm. I'm trying to have a positive pressure on my rig, so I really don't want the exhausts over power my intakes.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

So i've been scouting for these past few days. Saw a pump + pump top from EK DDC 3.2 PWM. Any good/better? 

 

And for the rads, I've seen some that has holes 1 at each end. Would that be recommended compared to the other ones?

 

Those Akasa fans, are they the best bang for your buck? I'm having a hard time looking for fans static fans atm. Looking for silent but has decent cfm. I'm trying to have a positive pressure on my rig, so I really don't want the exhausts over power my intakes.

 

 

 

 

 

The EK pump you put is good but it runs hot so hot that they actually make a hear sink for it to try and take the heat from the pump so it won't go into the coolant and thus make the coolant hotter. Look for the EK D5 pumps like this one.

 

Regarding the Akasa fans, yeah they are the best bang for your buck at the moment on the site i found them on, there is a re-branded version of the same fan but i doubt you could find them where you are. I have used both and i currently use the re-branded version as they are so cheap and i just bought some of the 140mm fans and this is the 120mm. These fans have the highest static pressure to noise to price ratio i know of and you can find them on newegg as well. I think newegg has a UK site, not to sure though. 

 

Akasa also makes other high static pressure fans namely the Viper and Piranha. The Viper is yellow louder but has even higher static pressure and CFM and comes in 120mm 1nd 140mm versions while the Piranha are a black with a pastel blueish blade and only comes in 120mm at the moment.

 

Regarding the radiators with holes on either end or not well this would depend on how you want to run your loop. In some instances a radiator with holes on either end works better and in some instances it does not and so to for the radiators with holes on one end but you can make either one work with angled fittings if you end up in a tight spot. What you really want to look for in the radiators are fin density, thickness and TDP cooling performance.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

So i've been scouting for these past few days. Saw a pump + pump top from EK DDC 3.2 PWM. Any good/better? 

 

And for the rads, I've seen some that has holes 1 at each end. Would that be recommended compared to the other ones?

 

Those Akasa fans, are they the best bang for your buck? I'm having a hard time looking for fans static fans atm. Looking for silent but has decent cfm. I'm trying to have a positive pressure on my rig, so I really don't want the exhausts over power my intakes.

 

 

 

 

 

yea some cases of ddc pumps actualy fail and cause major leaks so just get a D5. they are pretty much built like tanks.

Sorry fans aint my forte so im going to skip that.

what is your total budget for WC anyway?  and where are u generally located?

CPU i7 3770K@4.6Ghz Motherboard  Asus Maximus V Extreme Ram 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinum @ 1866Mhz GPU 3-Way Sli EVGA Gtx 780 //Core@1.2Ghz/Mem@7Ghz// PSU Corsair Ax1200i Storage OS 2xSamsung 840 Pro 128GB // 2xOCZ Vertex 4 128GB // 2xWD Red 4TB Keyboard Corsair K70 Mouse Steelseries Xai Cooling Custom Dual Loop Case Corsair 900D
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The EK pump you put is good but it runs hot so hot that they actually make a hear sink for it to try and take the heat from the pump so it won't go into the coolant and thus make the coolant hotter. Look for the EK D5 pumps like this one.

 

Regarding the Akasa fans, yeah they are the best bang for your buck at the moment on the site i found them on, there is a re-branded version of the same fan but i doubt you could find them where you are. I have used both and i currently use the re-branded version as they are so cheap and i just bought some of the 140mm fans and this is the 120mm. These fans have the highest static pressure to noise to price ratio i know of and you can find them on newegg as well. I think newegg has a UK site, not to sure though. 

 

Akasa also makes other high static pressure fans namely the Viper and Piranha. The Viper is yellow louder but has even higher static pressure and CFM and comes in 120mm 1nd 140mm versions while the Piranha are a black with a pastel blueish blade and only comes in 120mm at the moment.

 

Regarding the radiators with holes on either end or not well this would depend on how you want to run your loop. In some instances a radiator with holes on either end works better and in some instances it does not and so to for the radiators with holes on one end but you can make either one work with angled fittings if you end up in a tight spot. What you really want to look for in the radiators are fin density, thickness and TDP cooling performance.

 

Was looking at these Corsair sp120, Enermax tb silence(link has 140mm, but looked at 120mm), and Scythe Grand flex(they say, this 'replaced' the Scythe Gentle Typhoons). But still choosing still between the Akasa Apache and Corsair SP120's. Currently at the online shop i'm shopping at, the

SP 120's TWIN PACK are on sale for 19.90euros(28.90 normally).

 

I've researched on the Vipers and yeah, they say it was too loud.

 

yea some cases of ddc pumps actualy fail and cause major leaks so just get a D5. they are pretty much built like tanks.

Sorry fans aint my forte so im going to skip that.

what is your total budget for WC anyway?  and where are u generally located?

 

My budget 300~ euros including the compression fittings with a bit of a leeway. Of course, lower the better. I could sacrifice the Radiator size if need be.

 

I'm Europe, Italy to be exact. And I pretty much shop at our local store, amazon and EKWB website if the cost of the shipping can be compensated by the price.

 

drako.it (link directed to watercooling section) (website is in Italian, just translate whole page for english :D )

amazon.it

www.ekwb.com/

 

Thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was looking at these Corsair sp120, Enermax tb silence(link has 140mm, but looked at 120mm), and Scythe Grand flex(they say, this 'replaced' the Scythe Gentle Typhoons). But still choosing still between the Akasa Apache and Corsair SP120's. Currently at the online shop i'm shopping at, the

SP 120's TWIN PACK are on sale for 19.90euros(28.90 normally).

 

I've researched on the Vipers and yeah, they say it was too loud.

I am familiar with the Enermax silence, Corsair sp120(both the quiet and performance types) and the Scythe Grand flex. The Scythe is VERY VERY loud at 12v and the SP120s IMO are just for show, a static pressure of 1.29 is not much. In my experience a static pressure lower than 1.7 is just not good for thick or high fin density radiators. The Enermax fans are quiet and the static pressure is ok, they also have a new static pressure optimized fan called the Twister Pressure and it is the next fan i intend to try out but it only comes in 120mm at present and it is way better than the tb silence. 

 

The Apache's perform really good and quiet at 1000RPM and i have an ambient of 32C. I have 3x140mm(2 in front and one on the HDD cage blowing over the motherboard and 4x120mm(3 on my radiator and 1 as an exhaust in the back) in my system. I believe you won't be sorry with the Akasa Apache's but in the end it is up to you.

 

Hope you are happy with what ever you get though. 

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am familiar with the Enermax silence, Corsair sp120(both the quiet and performance types) and the Scythe Grand flex. The Scythe is VERY VERY loud at 12v and the SP120s IMO are just for show, a static pressure of 1.29 is not much. In my experience a static pressure lower than 1.7 is just not good for thick or high fin density radiators. The Enermax fans are quiet and the static pressure is ok, they also have a new static pressure optimized fan called the Twister Pressure and it is the next fan i intend to try out but it only comes in 120mm at present and it is way better than the tb silence. 

 

The Apache's perform really good and quiet at 1000RPM and i have an ambient of 32C. I have 3x140mm(2 in front and one on the HDD cage blowing over the motherboard and 4x120mm(3 on my radiator and 1 as an exhaust in the back) in my system. I believe you won't be sorry with the Akasa Apache's but in the end it is up to you.

 

Hope you are happy with what ever you get though. 

 

OK, so. Saw the Twister Pressure fan too. It looks good and has the specs to back it up. They are selling it here also(has 3-4euro difference, Twister being the cheaper one). Between the Akasa Apache or Enermax Twister what would you recommend? (even if its theoretically, I would like your opinion) I'm going to try to connect them all to the motherboard with some splitters. Having a fan controller would only make me more confused so i'm opting not to go that route. 

By the way, this talk about static pressure. How does it effect the CFM of the case pressure. I'm currently going for positive air pressure to keep all the dust out. :D So i'm really calculating all the fan cfm's before everything else.

 

Searched and looked for the rads you suggested, and can only find these:

 

XSPC ex360 ( the one you linked on your first reply)

XSPC Multiport ex360 (is this the same as the one above, even the price is the same. only with more ports?)

Black Ice radiator GT Stealth 360

Black Ice radiator GTS Lite 360

EKWB EK-Coolstream PE 360

 

Thanks yet again :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, so. Saw the Twister Pressure fan too. It looks good and has the specs to back it up. They are selling it here also(has 3-4euro difference, Twister being the cheaper one). Between the Akasa Apache or Enermax Twister what would you recommend? (even if its theoretically, I would like your opinion) I'm going to try to connect them all to the motherboard with some splitters. Having a fan controller would only make me more confused so i'm opting not to go that route. 

By the way, this talk about static pressure. How does it effect the CFM of the case pressure. I'm currently going for positive air pressure to keep all the dust out. :D So i'm really calculating all the fan cfm's before everything else.

 

Searched and looked for the rads you suggested, and can only find these:

 

XSPC ex360 ( the one you linked on your first reply)

XSPC Multiport ex360 (is this the same as the one above, even the price is the same. only with more ports?)

Black Ice radiator GT Stealth 360

Black Ice radiator GTS Lite 360

EKWB EK-Coolstream PE 360

 

Thanks yet again :)

Remember if you want positive pressure in your case to combat dust all the fans MUST have air filters.

 

I have not used the Twister Pressure as yet but by specs only i would go for the Akasa Apache's as the static pressure to noise at 12v is lower than any other fan i have used or researched and my configuration would be the Apache 3x120mm on the radiator you won't need push pull with these fans and for my positive pressure i would use the maximum configuration of Apache 140mm fans in front, botton and back, they have higher CFM than the 120mm. The fans splitters are the easier choice to me and i use them as well.

 

The static pressure is basically how far the CFM can travel before being non-effective, so the higher the static pressure the further the CFM can travel, this is also how the noise or decibels are created and the Apaches 120mm and 140mm have the lowest noise to performance to price i know of.

 

The 120mm Apaches send the hot air from my radiator right out the top of my case with ease and the 140mm Apaches blow air from the front and bottom of my case straight pass the HDD cages and then on the motherboard, it feels like if i have a 8 inch standing fan on low in my case. They work better than the stock 3x200mm NZXT case fans. 

 

When purchasing the cooling parts you should always look for what comes in the package and not just the item only. If you look at the multi-port XSPC radiator and all other XSPC radiators for that matter, you will see it does not come with good plugs. The plugs are plastic and will not hold under the pressure of the coolant running through the radiator so if you go with the radiator you will need proper copper plugs. I would go for a thick radiator like this one once you have the case and motherboard clearance.

 

If you want a multi-port radiator that comes with plugs and performs excellently with low or high air flow you will need to look for Alphacool Nexxos XT45 or UT60 radiators.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember if you want positive pressure in your case to combat dust all the fans MUST have air filters.

 

I have not used the Twister Pressure as yet but by specs only i would go for the Akasa Apache's as the static pressure to noise at 12v is lower than any other fan i have used or researched and my configuration would be the Apache 3x120mm on the radiator you won't need push pull with these fans and for my positive pressure i would use the maximum configuration of Apache 140mm fans in front, botton and back, they have higher CFM than the 120mm. The fans splitters are the easier choice to me and i use them as well.

 

The static pressure is basically how far the CFM can travel before being non-effective, so the higher the static pressure the further the CFM can travel, this is also how the noise or decibels are created and the Apaches 120mm and 140mm have the lowest noise to performance to price i know of.

 

The 120mm Apaches send the hot air from my radiator right out the top of my case with ease and the 140mm Apaches blow air from the front and bottom of my case straight pass the HDD cages and then on the motherboard, it feels like if i have a 8 inch standing fan on low in my case. They work better than the stock 3x200mm NZXT case fans. 

 

When purchasing the cooling parts you should always look for what comes in the package and not just the item only. If you look at the multi-port XSPC radiator and all other XSPC radiators for that matter, you will see it does not come with good plugs. The plugs are plastic and will not hold under the pressure of the coolant running through the radiator so if you go with the radiator you will need proper copper plugs. I would go for a thick radiator like this one once you have the case and motherboard clearance.

 

If you want a multi-port radiator that comes with plugs and performs excellently with low or high air flow you will need to look for Alphacool Nexxos XT45 or UT60 radiators.

 

Yup, The front and PSU intake of the Corsair 760t has a built-in removable dust filter, I already have a dust filter for the 120mm bottom intake fan. They say never block/ put dust filters on the exhaust, so I left the top and rear clear. So yeah, my plan is front 2x140mm(stock fans) + bottom 120mm. then 3x120mm pull for the top and im going to change the rear exhaust.

 

So, If I understood it correctly. I should still follow the CFM of the fans regardless on how high/low it's static pressure is. If I remember correctly, +/- 20 CFM was the sweet spot for the Positive air pressure, AFAIK.

 

Intake total = 184.99 CFM

front 2 x 140mm (Corsair AF 140L Stock fans @ 66.4 CFM) =  132.8

bottom 120mm (Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Exhaust total = 224.78 CFM

Top 3 x 120mm ( Akasa Apache 120 @ 57.53 CFM ) = 172.59

Rear 120mm ( Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Well, that ruined my plan for positive air pressure lol. Should I get a stronger front intake? Or should I opt for a smaller rad?

 

OK, so I measured the case for the fitting of the Black Ice GTX Lite 360 + akasa apache in pull. Unfortunately it will be in the way of the motherboard so I really need to get a thinner Rad. From the ones I listed above, which would you recommend? As for the Alphacool, It was overpriced here. more than 1/3 of the original price. The Alphacool ST30 was priced 'ok' but by the looks of it, it's thickness would not be enough to have a decent cooling, Am I right? So the ones I listed were the ones at the top of my list at the moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, The front and PSU intake of the Corsair 760t has a built-in removable dust filter, I already have a dust filter for the 120mm bottom intake fan. They say never block/ put dust filters on the exhaust, so I left the top and rear clear. So yeah, my plan is front 2x140mm(stock fans) + bottom 120mm. then 3x120mm pull for the top and im going to change the rear exhaust.

 

So, If I understood it correctly. I should still follow the CFM of the fans regardless on how high/low it's static pressure is. If I remember correctly, +/- 20 CFM was the sweet spot for the Positive air pressure, AFAIK.

 

Intake total = 184.99 CFM

front 2 x 140mm (Corsair AF 140L Stock fans @ 66.4 CFM) =  132.8

bottom 120mm (Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Exhaust total = 224.78 CFM

Top 3 x 120mm ( Akasa Apache 120 @ 57.53 CFM ) = 172.59

Rear 120mm ( Corsair AF 120 @ 52.19 CFM ) = 52.19

 

Well, that ruined my plan for positive air pressure lol. Should I get a stronger front intake? Or should I opt for a smaller rad?

 

OK, so I measured the case for the fitting of the Black Ice GTX Lite 360 + akasa apache in pull. Unfortunately it will be in the way of the motherboard so I really need to get a thinner Rad. From the ones I listed above, which would you recommend? As for the Alphacool, It was overpriced here. more than 1/3 of the original price. The Alphacool ST30 was priced 'ok' but by the looks of it, it's thickness would not be enough to have a decent cooling, Am I right? So the ones I listed were the ones at the top of my list at the moment.

CFM is nothing without static pressure, for example, if two fans can produce the same CFM say 70CFM but one fan has static pressure of 2.7 and the other has static pressure of 1.4 then the fan with the higher static pressure will be able to carry the CFM further into the case and over the components thus giving great cooling performance and pressure.

 

You are correct in saying you should never have a filter on the exhaust fans but you need them for the intake fans or otherwise the dust will still get in your case..

 

Don't do a thinner radiator than 34mm and yes, the ST30 is not my first choice for cooling but it has gotten good reviews. XSPC is my company for radiators as i find their radiators are priced right and perform as well as the more expensive radiators and i am sure you could do a XSPC ex360 radiator on top or maybe even a XT45 360mm radiator with three fans in either push or pull as i think the mounting holes are offset to allow for motherboard connectors such as the auxiliary eight pin power.  

 

This is what i would do, 3xAkasa Apaches 140mm, 2 in front and one on the bottom all with filters and 4xAkasa Apaches, 3 on your radiator on top in pull or push and one in the back sending air out the back without filters.

 

So your pressure would be this.....

 

Intake

2xAkasa Apaches 140mm @ 89.55CFM = 179.10 CFM

1xAkasa Apache 120mm @ 57.53CFM = 57.53 CFM

Total CFM = 236.63 CFM

 

Exhaust

3x Akasa Apache 120mm @57.53CFM = 172.59CFM

1x Stock Corsair 120mm fan @ 52.19CFM 

Total CFM = 224.78 CFM

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

CFM is nothing without static pressure, for example, if two fans can produce the same CFM say 70CFM but one fan has static pressure of 2.7 and the other has static pressure of 1.4 then the fan with the higher static pressure will be able to carry the CFM further into the case and over the components thus giving great cooling performance and pressure.

 

You are correct in saying you should never have a filter on the exhaust fans but you need them for the intake fans or otherwise the dust will still get in your case..

 

Don't do a thinner radiator than 34mm and yes, the ST30 is not my first choice for cooling but it has gotten good reviews. XSPC is my company for radiators as i find their radiators are priced right and perform as well as the more expensive radiators and i am sure you could do a XSPC ex360 radiator on top or maybe even a XT45 360mm radiator with three fans in either push or pull as i think the mounting holes are offset to allow for motherboard connectors such as the auxiliary eight pin power.  

 

This is what i would do, 3xAkasa Apaches 140mm, 2 in front and one on the bottom all with filters and 4xAkasa Apaches, 3 on your radiator on top in pull or push and one in the back sending air out the back without filters.

 

So your pressure would be this.....

 

Intake

2xAkasa Apaches 140mm @ 89.55CFM = 179.10 CFM

1xAkasa Apache 120mm @ 57.53CFM = 57.53 CFM

Total CFM = 236.63 CFM

 

Exhaust

3x Akasa Apache 120mm @57.53CFM = 172.59CFM

1x Stock Corsair 120mm fan @ 52.19CFM 

Total CFM = 224.78 CFM

 

Then it's the EX360 shall be it. :)  If I go any more expensive, i'll blow my already over budgeted budget lol! And I haven't even started looking at the fittings  :unsure:

 

Actually, the mounting holes on the top of the 760t are exactly in the middle of the case, you know, for the 'looks' haha! There are some other holes on the top of the case, but that's for mounting a 140mm rad.

 

3a063812-6fc4-4a1d-b7e1-0404821ff564.png

 

Maybe i'll just connect that last exhaust to the built-in fan speed on the case, just to lower the exhaust some more. I just wish I could keep the front stock fans because it looks good with the case in general with the LED lights. But well, I need the positive air pressure more than the look  :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Then it's the EX360 shall be it. :)  If I go any more expensive, i'll blow my already over budgeted budget lol! And I haven't even started looking at the fittings  :unsure:

 

Maybe i'll just connect that last exhaust to the built-in fan speed on the case, just to lower the exhaust some more. I just wish I could keep the front stock fans because it looks good with the case in general with the LED lights. But well, I need the positive air pressure more than the look  :D

Glad to hear and yes positive pressure is worth more then looks. You could do some cold cathode or LED strips in the case for lighting at a later date if you want.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad to hear and yes positive pressure is worth more then looks. You could do some cold cathode or LED strips in the case for lighting at a later date if you want.

 

actually, before I thought of having a custom waterloop, I already had plans on putting LED strips inside. But right now, with my budget, it's undoable  :D

 

What's your opinion on UV lighting + UV reactive tubing? I'll be putting my case on the table, eye level with the monitor. Any bad effect? UV lighting vs normal LED lighting?

 

Lastly, for the pump. D5 Vario (not the Strong version) vs D5 PWM? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

actually, before I thought of having a custom waterloop, I already had plans on putting LED strips inside. But right now, with my budget, it's undoable  :D

 

What's your opinion on UV lighting + UV reactive tubing? I'll be putting my case on the table, eye level with the monitor. Any bad effect? UV lighting vs normal LED lighting?

 

Lastly, for the pump. D5 Vario (not the Strong version) vs D5 PWM? 

The UV is cool too, do which ever suites your fancy.

 

Any D5 is good enough but the strong is the best IMO.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The UV is cool too, do which ever suites your fancy.

 

Any D5 is good enough but the strong is the best IMO.

UV is cool = check

UV lighting, safe = ?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

UV is cool = check

UV lighting, safe = ?????

Yes it is safe. The only down side to UV lighting is that you need darkness to show it off and if you put on the house lights the tubes will just look like it is radioactive.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it is safe. The only down side to UV lighting is that you need darkness to show it off and if you put on the house lights the tubes will just look like it is radioactive.

 

That could be cool haha! I was worried about it being harmful to the eyes or whatnot. But oh well, I guess my money is going to somewhere again  :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That could be cool haha! I was worried about it being harmful to the eyes or whatnot. But oh well, I guess my money is going to somewhere again  :wacko:

:)

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×